China Yunnan Pu 'er Tea: Variety and Royal Fashion of Pu 'er Fu tribute tea in Qing Dynasty!
Original Title: Varieties and Royal Fashion of Puerfu Tribute Tea in Qing Dynasty —— A Textual Research on the Reasons of Puerfu Tribute Tea (I)
Puer tribute tea in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty
Puer Jingua tribute tea in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty
The memorial of Pu 'er tribute tea during the reign of Kangxi and Yongzheng in Qing Dynasty
Recorded Pu 'er tribute tea "The Case of the Imperial Qing Dynasty"
Author: Huang Guishu Pu 'er Cultural Relics Management Office
As a tribute to the imperial court in Qing Dynasty, the date when Pu 'er tea began needs further research. According to historical records, by the time E Ertai promoted "returning to the native land" in Yunnan in the fourth year of Qing Yongzheng (1726), it should have been presented to the imperial court every year. Mr. Wang Yufeng, a Beijing tea expert, has done textual research on Pu 'er tribute tea. He once exchanged research results at the China Pu 'er Tea International Symposium held in Simao in April 1993. In this paper, according to the author's knowledge, it is described from the aspects of "tribute tea varieties", "tribute tea favor", "tribute tea purchase", "tribute tea national ceremony" and "tribute tea influence".
Puer fugong tea varieties
Since the Yongzheng period in the Qing Dynasty, the court has listed Pu 'er tea as tribute tea and regarded it as a tribute treasure of the court. In the 60th year of Qing Qianlong (1795), it was stipulated that there were four kinds of tribute teas in Pu 'er: Tuancha, Budcha, tea cream and Cake Tea. Later, the Qing government stipulated that tribute tea should be bought by Simao Hall. Pu 'er Fuzhi has been published for nineteen years in Qing Dynasty, and there are four kinds of tribute teas every year: group tea (5 kg of heavy group tea, 3 kg of heavy group tea, 1 kg of heavy group tea, 4 kg of double group tea and 1.5 kg of double group tea), bottle-filled bud tea, pistachio tea and box-filled tea cream with eight colors. In addition, as tribute tea, there are Jinggu Minle Yangta White Tea, namely "Bailong Xugong Tea" and Mojiang Xuli Gongcha.
Tea in Sipu District (now known as Pu 'er City and Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture, and in Nanzhao of Tang Dynasty, it was called "Silver Living and Saving Land") has been sold to Tibet since Tang and Song Dynasties. "Pu 'er Mansion Records" in Qing Dynasty states: "Pu 'er belonged to Yinsheng Mansion in ancient times, so the use of common tea in western countries has been since the Tang Dynasty." After the Tang Dynasty, the emperors often used Yunnan Pu 'er tea to exchange horses with Tubo, that is, the "tea-horse trade", and the tea name may have been called "Silver Raw Tea" at that time. Tea-horse trade has made Yunnan Pu 'er tea have a stable market and increased demand, thus promoting the development of tea production, and gradually forming the six famous tea mountains in Pu 'er House in history, with a far-reaching reputation. During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, Xie Zhaozhe mentioned for the first time in "A Brief Introduction to Yunnan" that "all the common people used tea and steamed it into a ball". "Ordinary tea" means "Pu 'er tea". Since then, various historical materials have also recorded the name of Pu 'er tea.
In 1726, the governor of Yunnan and Guizhou, E Ertai, carried out the ruling policy of "changing the soil into the stream" in ethnic minority areas, abolishing the land department, setting up a government office, placing a stream officer in the army and strengthening administrative rule. In the seventh year of Yongzheng (1729), the "Pu 'er Mansion" was set up, and in October of the thirteenth year of Yongzheng (1735), the "Simao Hall" was set up, which governed 8 Meng places in Cheche, Liushun, Yibang, Yi Wu, Mengla, Mengzhe, Meng 'a, Menglong and Olive Dam, and ruled Simao. As a result, Simao Hall in Pu 'er Prefecture has become the distribution center for the purchase and sale of six tea mountains, and the market trade is very prosperous. In the same year, tea donations were collected with the approval of the imperial court. The Qing Dynasty Canon Case said: "In the thirteenth year of Yongzheng, Yunnan merchants made tea in one barrel for every seven regiments, weighing 49 taels (equivalent to 3.6 Jin now), and a tax was levied for each hundred tendons (that is, Jin), and 32 barrels of tea should be used as one lead (equivalent to 105.2 Jin now), and each lead should be taxed. Beginning in the thirteenth year, it was awarded a tea citation (license) of 3,000 yuan (equivalent to 3,582 tons today) to various merchants, and the marketing class (tax) was sold as a quota. "
In order to further control the purchase and sale of Pu 'er tea, E Ertai, the governor of Qing Dynasty, set up a government-run tea head office in Simao in the seventh year of Yongzheng (1729), and appointed "Tongguan" officials to personally take charge of the general tea shop, implementing a disguised monopoly policy of tea purchase, forbidding private sale, and at the same time implementing the system of using tea buds every year to select the best Pu 'er tea to pay tribute to Beijing in order to win the favor of the emperor. The tribute teas paid by Governor Yungui and Governor Yunnan are: 400 yuan for Pu 'er tea, 100 yuan for Pu 'er daughter tea and 100 yuan for Rui tea, 100 bottles for Pu 'er bud tea and Rui tea, and 100 boxes for Pu 'er paste. Therefore, refined and excellent Pu 'er tea treasures have become tribute tea that entered the palace in the year, and Pu 'er tea enjoys a higher reputation at home and abroad because of its name as tribute tea.
Reasons why Pu 'er Fugu tribute tea is favored.
As tribute tea, Pu 'er tea entered the Qing Palace in Beijing, and all members of the royal family had to taste it. After comparing it with tribute tea sent from other places, it was found that Pu 'er tea was different in taste and tea properties from lobular tea grown in other places, so it won the favor of the royal family. The reason is that Pu 'er tea is a kind of Yunnan big leaf tea in the virgin forest of deep mountains and old forests, which has the special quality of strong tea flavor, the strongest ability to help digestion, and the role of treatment and health care. These characteristics of Pu 'er tea have long been experienced by people in Ming and Qing dynasties, and have been recorded in many languages. Fang Yizhi, a scholar who was a scholar in Chongzhen in the Ming Dynasty and knew medicine, wrote in "A Brief Introduction to Physics": "The steamed Pu 'er tea is the best thing in the west." Zhao Xuemin, a scholar in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, said in the Compendium of Materia Medica that Pu 'er tea is "bitter in taste". Solution of greasy cattle and sheep poison, virtual people are forbidden. Bitter. Purge phlegm and lower qi. Scraping the intestines to relieve diarrhea ... Pu 'er tea paste is black as paint, sobering up first, green is better, digestion and phlegm are eliminated, and the stomach is clear and fluid is produced. " In the sixth volume of the book "Mubu", there is another cloud: "Pu 'er tea paste can cure all diseases, such as bloating and cold. If it is dispersed with ginger soup, sweating will be cured. The mouth is broken and sore, and it hurts when it is heated. It will heal after spending five minutes overnight. " "Interview with Simao Hall" says: Pu 'er tea "helps digestion, dispels cold and has detoxification effect". These tea properties of Pu 'er tea are very suitable for the life needs of the nobles in the Qing Dynasty, thus making Pu 'er tea the first choice for the royal family to drink tea.
The Fashion of Royal Drinking Pu 'er Tea in Qing Dynasty
The ancestors of the Qing Dynasty were nomadic people in the northeast of China, and meat accounted for a large proportion in their diet structure. After they became emperors and nobles in Beijing, they were pampered and pampered, so they needed a kind of tea beverage with great digestion skills. And Pu 'er tea just has this characteristic, so the tribute Pu 'er tea, daughter tea and Pu 'er tea paste won the special appreciation of emperors, empresses and nobles. It is fashionable to drink Pu 'er tea in the palace, some for soaking and some for boiling milk tea. Especially in winter, the climate in the north is dry, so it is necessary to drink more Pu 'er tea. What is good in the world will be effective in the next, so Yunnan Pu 'er tea became famous in Beijing in the Qing Dynasty, and the society was salty. After being certified by local officials and appraised by the people, Yunnan Pu 'er tea is indeed the best post-fermented tea in China, which lasted for nearly 200 years from the early years of Qing Dynasty to the end of Qing Dynasty and became the favorite tea of the royal family.
Cao Xueqin, a great litterateur in Qing Dynasty, knew something about Pu 'er tea. In the sixty-third chapter of A Dream of Red Mansions, which describes aristocratic life, he described that drinking Pu 'er daughter's tea helped digestion. It was Jia Baoyu's birthday night. Eight girls made a birthday for Baoyu and stayed up late. Lin Zhixiao, the housekeeper of Rongguo Mansion, took several old women to check the night in Yihong Courtyard. When they saw that everyone was awake, they urged them to go to bed early. Baoyu said, "I ate noodles today, so I was afraid to stop eating, so I played more." Lin zhixiao's wife smiled at xiren and others and said, "We should stew some Pu 'er tea." Aroma and Qingwen quickly said, "I have already drunk two bowls of daughter tea in a teapot ..." Daughter tea is also a famous Pu 'er tea, and Ruan Fu, a Qing dynasty, wrote in Pu 'er Tea that "a small and round one is a famous daughter tea, and daughter tea is picked by women and obtained before the rain, that is, four or two groups of tea." Thus, Pu 'er tea played an important role in the life of the upper class in Qing Dynasty.
The Qing Dynasty's love for Pu 'er tea spread to Yunnan, where tribute tea originated. Therefore, Tan Cui, a Qing Dynasty man, said in Heng Zhi of Yunnan Haiyu that "Pu 'er tea is more famous than the world", while Ruanfu, a Qing Dynasty man, recorded in Pu 'er tea that "Pu 'er tea is famous all over the world, with the most delicious taste, and the capital is particularly important", which reflected the actual situation and tea drinking fashion at that time in the Qing Dynasty.
The fashion of drinking Pu 'er tea in the houses of the royal family and the upper class in the Qing Dynasty was passed down from generation to generation until the late Qing Dynasty, the Republic of China and even the 1960s. In this regard, after the death of the Qing Dynasty, some eunuchs and maids who left the palace also reflected in what they said in the palace. Jin Yi and Shen Yiling, ladies-in-waiting who served Empress Dowager Cixi for eight years, said in the book "Ladies-in-waiting Talks": "The old lady (Empress Dowager Cixi) entered the room and sat in the east of Tiaoshan Kang. The tea drinker presents a Pu 'er tea first. The old lady is old in the year after next, and she is in the winter and has just finished eating greasy food, so she wants to drink Pu 'er tea, because it is warm and can relieve greasy food. " Aisin Giorro Puyi, the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty, also confirmed that Yunnan Pu 'er tea was a pet in the eyes of the royal family of the Qing Dynasty, and owning Pu 'er tea was a sign to measure the nobility of the royal family. Later, Mr. Puyi, who became a member of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference Literature and History Committee, and Mr. Lao She, a famous writer, were both Manchu, and they had a deep relationship. In 1966, when they participated in the commemoration of the centenary of Dr. Sun Yat-sen's birth, they often worked together. After the task was completed, Lao She personally sent Puyi back to the house, while Puyi stayed with Lao She for a nap and had a chat over tea. Lao She once asked Pu Yi what kind of tea did you drink when you were emperor? Puyi told me: Living habits in the Qing Palace, drinking Longjing in summer and Pu 'er in winter, the emperor never misses the opportunity of tasting Pu 'er tea every year. It can be seen that the emperor also likes to drink small and round Pu 'er tea made of Yunnan fine bud leaves to prolong life. The Qing Palace can make wonderful use of Pu 'er tea, which provides valuable experience for future generations in the way of health preservation.
